Solitude by the Shore: A Morning Dip in the Waves

The final day of break dawns, and I find myself cocooned in the car, soaking up warmth as grandma takes the reins of kid duty. Wetsuit, fins, and on old beach towel reside in the back, alongside my prized Salted Line camera housing nestled in its neoprene pouch. Destination: the beach, just as the first light graces the world, promising the pursuit of waves.

The weather forecast promises robust east winds—a surfer's delight, creating the perfect conditions for offshore winds. These winds cradle the wave's face, extending the ride into something magnificent.

  two guys talking to a surfer just getting out, on a sandy dune at first light

Standing on the dunes, surveying less-than-stellar waves and a mere whisper of a breeze, a buzz interrupts my thoughts. My buddy's en route to Hueneme, igniting thoughts of a breakfast burrito and a retreat home. Yet, with grandma managing the kiddo, the call of the ocean beckons—I'm in! The internal debate about the camera is fleeting; experience whispers of opportunities, and the camera becomes my companion.

looking at a surfer riding a wave off in the distance during first lightlooking at waves down at the harbor, first light. Ventura's Westside hillside visible in the background

A quick stretch, and I step into the cool water, camera in one hand, fins in the other. Next to the jetty, the natural rip current pulls me into its rhythm. Surfers, lifeguards, and ocean regulars understand its power, knowing how to harness it. Floating in the rip current, fins on, camera settings dialed, I navigate past crashing waves, seamlessly joining the morning ocean enthusiasts.

picture from the water of a surfer riding a decent size wave in my direction

Wave activity is modest. Still, I meander, capturing a few photos amidst the favorable lighting. Suddenly, across the bay, the wedge reveals itself—two, three right shoulders, modest yet rideable. Another set, more wedge waves. A detour to the other jetty, not just for the legs but for a few more waves. The east winds intensify, offering a chance to catch the incoming wave, creating a peculiar A-frame wave with a beautiful right shoulder, almost surfable to the sand. The bigger the waves, the weirder and more warped the spectacle.

shot from the water, a weird A-frame wave is cresting the break wall in the background
the spray of a wave crashing leaves a fleeting rainbow in the sky with falling water droplets

Twenty to thirty minutes of joy follow as I ride the waves, embracing the playground like a carefree kid. Surfers and a bodysurfer emerge, prompting a few additional shots before realizing my freedom window is closing. A rideable wave to the shallows and I am on dry sand. A quick change, packing up, and a pit stop at Lalo's—the breakfast burrito, a well-earned reward.

a crashing barreling wave over the photographer. Just a glimpse of a standup paddle boarder is visible through the waves
bodysurfer riding a wave

While the camaraderie of friends elevates ocean activities, this Sunday morning stands as a testament to the potency of a solo venture. Alone in the water, attuned to my surroundings, I let the wind guide me. Mindlessly bobbing, the changing morning light paints the waves in vibrant hues. Laughter accompanies the winds spraying the waves, creating moving rainbows in the spray. A moment of pure happiness and carefree bliss—a beautiful morning indeed.

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1 comment

Amazing Josh! You are a talented source of goodness in this world. Thanks amigo!

Chris Ford

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